Matamwe Retreat, an Asilia Resort, Zanzibar, Africa.

Take a look at this crazy list of custom curated lodges, tents and hotels…it’s a lot of ground to cover in just three months, you may even say I’ve been sleeping around Africa:  Kenya, South Africa, Zambia, Botswana, Mozambique and Tanzania.

KENYA:

• Ngong House, Nairobi:  A welcome stop-over just 30 minutes from the airport en route to or from your safari adventures. Picture below is from the tub in my tree house.  Flemish owner, Paul Verleycer also just happens to be married to Belfast born, designer Penny Winter– who I’ve ordered both a leather jacket and great horn cuff from.  Penny’s jewelry designs can be found in Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Net-a-Porter, but for her clothing you have to go to her own site  or visit the shop at the hotel.  And if they weren’t already over achievers, they also built both a school and orphanage in a nearby village.  Free wifi through out property. Open year round.

• Saruni Samburu, Samburu:  ONE of my most favorite hotels to date.  Rugged luxury, tents that are nicer than my Manhattan apartment (and bigger), outdoor showers overlooking the valley, animals galore– including the leopard that purred outside my tent one evening.  Italian owner, Riccardo leases the land from the local Samburu people, the shop carries gifts and crafts from local tribes women co-ops and over 80 percent of the staff he employs are Samburu– the local culture comes through in every part of the hotel, the bush dinners and game drives.  A small spa and pool are on site.  Open year round.  Spotty wifi available in the gift shop. The above view from my personal tented living room.

• Joy’s Camp, Shaba Reserve: is named after the infamous Joy Adamson who reared the orphaned lion, Elsa and later the leopard Penny. Joy was also author to several books, including, Queen of Shaba. The tents may not be as ornate as Samburu, but you certainly aren’t roughing it (the view from my bed below).

• The decor is more Ethiopian, which to my untrained eye almost looked Moroccan. The food on property was light to compliment the hot desert weather and the best I’ve had yet in Kenya.  A favorite find is that the tents and uniforms are all made by a tailor on camp, Cyprian. Strong wi-fi service, spa treatments in room and  open year round- Joy’s Camp.

I loved the pants so much he made me a piar in under an hour- pictured with the lovely hotel manager, Francien.

• Borana Lodge, Laikipia (North Central): Rustic luxury lodges. Built in 1993, the first eco-lodge in the Laikipia region and the first time I’ve had a door and windows since I  left Nairobi! Outdoor seating area over looking the watering hole.  Pool, village and school visits, spa treatments in room, horse back riding, hikes, mountain biking and game drives.  Also, Pride Rock which inspired Lion King is a short drive from the lodge.  There is a pride of 18 lions on the ranch. Ngare Ndare Forest for hikes and rhino spotting.  Great place for families.  Spotty Wi-Fi in room. Safari Link or Air Kenya to the Lewa airstrip. thesafariandconservationcompany.com/content/4/borana_lodge  See “People&Projects” page for the story on Michael Dyer for more photographs.

• Sabuk Lodge, Laikipia North:  If you can get over the missing wall and enjoy the starry Kenyan sky, this is the perfect rugged luxury lodge.  Star beds in almost all rooms, outdoor bath tub and shower. Simple, clean and really allows you to experience your surroundings.  Big supporter of local community. Village visits, safari, hiking, camel safaris, hiking , fly camping are all available and included in daily rate. No cell service and spotty Wi-Fi near gift shop. Pool, masseuse available in room or in spa. Safari Link will fly to the Loisaba airstrip or Nanuki airport is a three hour drive from camp (Safari Link or Air Kenya).  See story on Sabuk on “Home” page for more photographs.

•  Bateleur Camp & Kichwa Tembo, Masai Mara: The camps are actually connected though discretely so. The Bateleur camp is about as luxurious as a tent can get. Hardwood floors and elevated platform. While the ceiling and side are a canvas tent, the shower and bathroom facility are a beautiful stone. A gym in a basket was provided—yoga mat, Pilates ring, weights, jump rope, etc. The warthogs outside my tent were terrified by my jumping rope in the mornings. The views from the tent over look the Mara with plenty of game.  There were even two big leather arm chairs for game viewing. While I am all about eating local, traditional Masai fare is cow’s blood mixed with milk and ugali (a thick substance made of maize), I was happy to find the local chef specialized in international cuisine. Bateleur will customize each meal upon request and offers  a choice between main courses at dinner. Kichwa is a more traditional camp with buffet style meals. Wifi was spotty at best. Activities included: safari drives  (there are plenty of animals to see) and hikes.  Pool on property and spa treatments in-tent.  Balloon safari and Masai village visits are available, additional fees apply.  And if you ask nicely, there is a resident philanthropic guide (Julius) from the Africa Foundation who can take you to see the water project, bee-keeping and poultry projects, the medical clinic and schools that &Beyond supports.

  The balloon safari taking off in front of my tent, Bateluer Camp.

  

  Tents at Bateluer Camp, Masai Mara, Kenya.

• Alex Walker’s Serian (Bush Camp), Mara North Conservancy: The camp is actually divided into two sections. Serian Camp is built back from the river, with excellent views of the encampment (northern wall of the Mara) and the river.   Across the river,  Ngare sits directly on the river, inclusive of great views of the hippos just across the river.  To walk between the two, there is a tiny “one at a time” suspension bridge.  The décor of both sides is similar, though, Ngare has outlets for charging in room, a covered walk to the bathroom and the tents are slightly larger.  Each side has it’s own “mess tent” with hardwood floors, beautiful carpets, plush white couches and a large dining table.  The Serian side also has a gift shop and weather permitting a nice outdoor seating/eating area.  Ngare has a deck with a small fire pit off the mess tent right at the river edge. While most camps have you with the same guide during the visit, you sometimes need to share with other guests.  At Serian and Ngare, your guide and driver stay with you exclusively during the length of your visit.  There is no Wi-Fi or pool, but plenty of game viewing and hikes.  Village and local school visits are also available.  During high season (approximately June-September), there is a tree house to hike to for bush breakfasts and a mobile camp to follow the herds and the lion pride that frequent the 4,000 acres of the private Mara North Conservancy.  Don’t be fooled, the tents used for the mobile camp have bathrooms attached, so it’s not exactly roughing it!

Sunrise from the porch of my tent at Serian.

The resident hippos at Serian.

The porch on the river at Serian.

Mesh tent at Serian.

• Richard’s Camp, Olchoro Conservany just north west of Masai Mara: Tented camp nestled in a hidden clearing right out in the bush.  The only permanent structure is the main lodge, which is open on three sides and a fireplace on the fourth.  The tents are actual tents, on the ground, the way you did in girl scouts, except there is a gigantic king size bed with the finest linens.  Your bathroom is inside, note they are bucket showers, so if you take longer than five/six minutes you may need to call for a second bucket of warm water.  I challenge you to test your ability to take a shower in five minutes—c’mon what are you doing in there?  A very relaxed atmosphere.  Communal tables on the grounds for three meals, unless you are lucky enough to have a bush dinner on the banks of the river with hundreds of hippos.  Bonfires in the center of camp under the stars aren’t too shabby either.   Wi-fi at the main lodge.  The tents are not fenced in, so  you must be walked back to your tent (this is fairly common I’ve come to find).  You may hear an animal or two munching on the grass outside your tent at night.There is also a private camp that can be taken over by families or groups looking for a private experience.  The owner, Richard Roberts also started the Mara Elephant Project in August 2011 (please see home page for pictures and more detail).

  A tent at Richard’s camp.

• Saruni Camp and Saruni Wild, Mara North Conservancy: The lodge opened nine years ago and each of the six tents are being redecorated in theme (literary, astronomy, etc)– as only an Italian owned camp could pull off.  The tents are all elevated, with in-door bathroom and a deck overlooking the grounds.  Three course Italian cuisine served at every meal up in the main lodge or in the bush.  The guides are flexible to set whatever itinerary your heart desires.  You may even be lucky enough if you have a guide to yourself.   All the activities you could ask for in a lodge including walks, hot air balloon rides, primary school visits to Ngowani School are included.  I even convinced my guide to bring me to a Masai mass (see the home page for pictures), if you are there on a Sunday, it’s a worthwhile experience.  It’s Conservancy rules that each camp can only have four trucks, which is great to help cut out pile ups on predator viewing (Saruni Lodge has four vehicles for six tents—a very good ratio).   Wi-fi is best in the gift shop and a complimentary 30-minute massage is offered per tent.  Similar to most of the lodges in and around the Mara, the crafts are made by the local women.  Rates are all inclusive, except French champers.I didn’t have the time to visit Wild which is the tented camp in another part of the Conservancy—apparently  a three night stay at the Samburu property, then two at the lodge and 1 in the tented camp is a nice circuit.

  Tent at Saruni Camp.

  • Lemarti’s Camp, Laikipia:  While I didn’t have the chance to visit this lodge in person, I did get to meet the woman that designed it, Anna Tzrebinski.  I love the Laikipia region and I love her design—so Lemarti’s is officially added to “the must list”.  Anna’s husband, Lemarti runs the camp with his childhood friend, Boniface.  Both Lemarti and Boniface  are members of the local Samburu community.   The camp has all the experiences other lodges I visited in this region offered: walks, camel treks, biking, sundowners, local Samburu village visits, fly camping.  However they also offer high altitude running, swimming and fishing in the river—Lemarti’s is based on the banks of the Ewaso Nyiro River.  I have heard that while the camps are insanely well designed, some clients are intimated by the completely outdoor bathrooms.

• Hogmead, Karen, a suburb of Nairobi:  Arriving to Hogmead was like coming home, except to a really nice one.  Beautiful grounds overlooking the giraffe center.  Delicious food and relaxed atmosphere.  Special plus is that locals  from the Karen neighborhoods come for lunch and dinner– so it doesn’t feel touristy.  Cute gift shop with crafts from local designers.  Close proximity to Karen Blixen museum and garden, Sheldrick’s Elephant and Rhino Orphanage and the national park.  If you are just stopping in Nairobi and/or just out of the bush, the Wilson airport is only 15 minutes taxi drive away.  Hogmead even have day rates for those that just need a shower and a meal (B&B, half board and full board).   There is an amazing woman named Grace that can be called in for spa treatments and mani/pedis in-room.  Strong wi-fi signal.

SOUTH AFRICA:

• The Saxon, a member of Leading Hotels of the World, Johannesburg: Cape Grace, Cape Town: Hotel is a quick 20 minutes drive from the airport, centrally located in the Waterfront.  The decor strikes me as a I’ve entered a Dutch sailing vessel, which I rather liked.  While the hotel is formal, there is a fun bar downstairs overlooking the water (Bascule Whiskey, Wine & Cocktail Bar)– happy to report that locals also frequented.  The service was top notch and the most beautiful local flower displays you could hope for. Very international crowd, free wi-fi and complimentary views of seals in the harbor from your room.

Outside the iconic Cape Grace Hotel, Cape Town, SA.

The fresh flower stand outside Cape Grace.

• Kensington Place, Cape Town:  Super chic and sexy eight room hotel at the top of Kloof Road in Cape Town (read posh neighborhood).  Owner and founder, Chris Weir, was at the forefront of the boutique hotel concept back in 1997.  A close walk to some cool restaurants and a few funky shops, but otherwise a quick taxi ride anywhere in Cape Town you’d like to go.  Love the design of the lobby and in-room.  Good place to have friends for brunch or lunch, but a bit small for a dinner on the town.  No worries though, Chris also happens to know all the hot spots in town and has the in for the reservations too.  Free wi-fi throughout hotel.

Pool area at the Kensington Place, Cape Town, SA.

• One&Only, Cape Town: When have you ever gone wrong with a One&Only?  The hotel is huge (131 rooms), but has a really nice buzz about it.  Great views of Table Mountain through the floor to ceiling windows both in-room and from the main areas of the hotel.  The lobby always had chic people walking through and the local chef, Reuben Riffel’s restaurant was packed for dinner.  There is also a Nobu on property.  The gift shop, albeit expensive, had designer ware from all over the world as well as a few local pieces.  The gym had all of the state-of-the-art equipment and free wi-f throughout the hotel. One&Only is also situated in the Waterfront in Cape Town and quite convenient– I had a few last minute hiking gear needs for Kili and was able to walk right out and grab them at the shops.  Similar to the One&Only Dubai, there were an excessive number of insanely expensive sports cars outside the hotel.

• Dock House, a Newmark Hotel, Cape Town: while I didn’t have a chance to stay, I’ve heard from reliable sources that the Dock House Boutique Hotel & Spa is a nice, more intimate option if you prefer to be in the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront–  just five bedrooms and one suite.

• Le Quartier Francias, Franschhoek, South Africa:  A quaint little cottage feel surrounding the main pool nestled in wine country.  Don’t be fooled, this Relais & Chateux property also has hidden suites with private pools for those that require privacy (or a group) and a new 3-star sister property, Delicious, located next door.  The Tasting Room is their signature restaurant, delicious, but pricey.  Internet is free, but spotty.  Very relaxed and romantic.

  The cottages overlooking the main pool area of Le Quarier Francias, Fransshoek, SA.

• Grootbos Private Nature Reserve Western Cape, South Africa:  Some of the most stunning views of the ocean, mountains and “walk about nature reserve” you can imagine.  The reserve sits just past Hermanus, the hub for whale watching and nestled throughout great wineries.  There are three different options for your stay.  The Garden Lodge which is just completing renovations and is great for families- game room, adjoining rooms, etc.  Has more of a modern safari lodge feel.  The Forest Lodge (where I stayed) is what I would call eco-chic.  Local woods, products and neutral colors.  Our cabin had two bathrooms, living room, large bedroom and a fireplace.  The third option is the villa for the rich-and-famous and or large groups is the private villa (a picture from the living room overlooking one of the pools below).  A private art collection, in-door BBQ and staff accompany the villa.  Free wi-fi throughout.  All meals, guided walks, horseback riding, visits to their “Green Futures program,” etc. are included in rate.  Alcoholic beverages are extra and activities like shark diving.

Sunset from Forest Lodge.

Private villa for nightly rental on Grootbos Nature Reserve.

• Karkloof Spa, KwaZulu Natal:  The lodge and cabins are all rustic luxury.  Decorated in colonial style, but with vivid black and white nature photography.  There is game on the reserve, though no elephants or lions.  Considering they offer long hikes, cycling and runs, I’d say this is a good thing!  There are beautiful waterfalls to hike and fishing to be had.  I have never been a “spa buff”, but I’ve taken full advantage of the complimentary spa treatments.  All based in the Thai tradition– I had my first float and an amazing 90-minute Thai yoga massage.  They even convinced me to get my first body wrap.  After eating a lot of bush meat across Africa, I was thrilled to find that Karkloof also have a full raw menu if you choose, if not, all of their food and meats are sourced locally.  High-speed internet throughout.  Did I mention they have a complimentary wine cellar?

• Phinda, KwaZulu Natal: An &Beyond Reserve, which I came to learn that the company was behind helping the local Zulu people take back the land and voluntarily paying the local Tribal Council rent for use of the land which &Beyond had been operating since 1991.  Phinda actually means, “The Return” in Zulu, which came from &Beyond helping to return the land from farmland to it’s natural state.  First this private reserve is huge and you have six options for where to stay while there.  There are three lodges in the South and three in the North– I’ve done my best to break them down below.  The feel is actually quite different considering they are only about a 30 minute drive from one another.

SOUTH:  1) Mountain: the largest of the three (25 cabins).  Big cabins and bathrooms, private plunge   pool & outdoor showers, Boma (BBQ) and bush dinners, a shared pool, gift shop, really spotty wi-fi (and only on their computers).  2) Zulu:  interactive kitchen for all meals, four rooms all attached to the main lodge- best for group take overs, but rooms can be booked individually.  3) Rock:  Six rooms with views of the mountainous valley.  Individual plunge pools, large room and shared main area for dining.

NORTH: 1) Forest:  16 rooms nestled in the forest, all doubles, with beautiful local artistic touches throughout.  Shared dining area and pool.  Boma and bush dinners.  Also have an interactive kitchen if interested. A bird hide for bird viewing.   2)Homestead: sole use villa.  Sleeps eight plus a nanny or pilot room.  Game room, large living area, a gym, pool and staff (butler, guide, ranger, chef, etc).  3) Vlei:  Six rooms each with a large deck and plunge pool and a central lodge.  The food was deliciously prepared.

With all of Phinda, you can’t go wrong, it’s just choosing the option that fits the type of traveler you are.  I stayed in Mountain Lodge one evening, which was large.  I enjoyed the people I met at the Boma dinner, but it’s not something I would want every evening– the larger lodges (Mountain and Forest cater to people who want to dine privately).  I also had the pleasure of staying at Vlei, but apparently I am a big talker, because I ended up at a table with a local group of South Africans.  With all six lodge options, the cabins are on raised platforms, modern and well decorated.  Other than the private takeovers, you will share a safari vehicle with other guests, however Phinda ensures never more than six people to a car so everyone has an “outside” facing seat.  Because you are sharing, there is a certain sense of a schedule to be followed.  This said, I enjoyed everyone I shared an experience with and had some of the best game viewing to date.   As you’d imagine, Phinda offers all the safari options as the other lodges (game drives, etc), but I was also impressed by their more unique offerings:  specialist guiding (ie photo safaris– they will even travel with you to Ethiopia if you’d like), beach trips, canoeing, swimming with whale sharks, scuba, turtle experiences, overnight walking safaris, Black Rhino walks, their Zulu cultural visits, their community projects such as the special needs school and medical facility that &Beyond built for the locals.

ZAMBIA:

• Puku Ridge, Sanctuary, South Luangwa:   Six tents on raised platforms overlooking a vlei full of game grazing.  In fact, there was quite a buffalo fight in the middle of the night that made the camp all the more exciting.  Friendly staff, great guides and educational bush walks.  Always with a ranger.  The tents were large, had mosquito nets, a fan, individual outdoor decks on each tent, fully enclosed, both outdoor and indoor showers  and a tub.  Good bath products—Africaology.  Wifi in public area worked best during the day.  Small shared plunge pool.  Open year round.

• Nsefu, Robin Pope Safari House, South Luangwa:Five small colonial roundavels.  Beds had mosquito nets.  Windows were open, though screen flaps could be pulled down at your request.  Bathrooms were connected to the room, but open at top.  Beautiful views of the Luangwa River with plenty of hippo and elephant sitings.  Walks, fishing, boat safaris and game drives.  Ate a casual buffet dinner under the stars and around a campfire.

• Bushcamps Company, South Luangwa: 1. Mfuwe Lodge: The start off point for your trip around the Bushcamps of the Luangwa if you are on the early morning flight, if not you can go straight through.  I found the spacious rooms dark, mostly due to the baboon shutters (they have hundreds of them running around).  Good wifi connection in the main area (caveat, strong by bush standards).  A large lodge with 15 chalets, large communal swimming pool and bar/relaxation area.  NEW: a beautiful spa with open views of the hippo pond.  All local products are used—highly recommend the Kigelia Africana (sausage tree) mud which is the seaming solution to all skin ailments.  A cute curio shop and note, elephants have been known to walk through the lobby. 2. Bilimungwe: Four large thatched fully enclosed rooms on raised decks, with screened windows.   Each room had a large sitting area, a bed with a mosquito net, spacious bathrooms and outdoor decks.  Indoor and outdoor showers.  No pool and no wifi, there was a slight cell signal at the top of a nearby termite mound.  Comfortable communal sitting and dining areas overlooking a beautiful grove of trees and a fire pit out back.  Great food and ok wine selection.  Activities are included—walking and games drives (day and night). 3. Chindeni: Four large tents on raised platforms- sitting and sleeping areas (mosquito nets over beds).  The outdoor deck had two hammocks for fantastic hippo viewing on the Kapampa River.  Modern safari chic communal sitting and dining area and a fire pit below. Walks and game drives are included. 4. Zungulila: Four tented rooms with a crazy combo of colonial safari and Moroccan carpeted decor.  Mosquito nets over the beds. The toilet is inside and shower outside.  Small individual plunge pools on the deck.  Beautiful view of the flood plain.  Walks and game drives included, I even convinced them to let me run on the river bank, but I had to have an armed ranger.  Good food and ok wine selection. 5. Kapamba:  Four chalets with one open wall, though there is a small gate made to look like a metal spider web that they close in the evening.  Beds had mosquito nets.  A large tub with two massive shower heads.  Each has a deck that looked out over the river.  An open communal sitting area with a fire pit deck below.  Activities are included.

• Tongabezi Lodge, Livingston near Victoria Falls: Five river cottages, seven rooms and one treehouse.  In the main area there is spotty wifi, curio shop, a communal pool and a reading loft where you can relax, dine privately or even check your email on the house computer.  Visit to Victoria Falls on the Zambia side, drives through the nearby national park, fishing, canoe trips, sunset cruise and visits to the local school (Tjuane Primary and Secondary Schools) which is fully supported by the owners and visitors of Tongabezi Lodge are included.  1.  The river cottages are huge and fully enclosed—the windows are open, but screened and mosquito nets over the beds.  An indoor tub and shower.  A covered sitting area and large deck right on the Zambezi River.  2.  The rooms have an open wall  with mosquito nets over the beds.  Large rooms with a sitting area and outdoor deck—each room is decorated differently.  All are up on the hill overlooking the river.  3.  The treehouse is a double room that hangs out over the river with trees growing through the middle of the room.  The treehouse is totally open but has a mosquito net over the bed.  Outdoor double basin shower and a u-shaped deck looking onto the water below.  Every room has optional AC.

• Chiawa Camp, Lower Zambezi National Park:  Eight large platform tents with enclosed bathrooms (shower and a footed tub).  Each tent had a deck and outdoor shower.  Charging stations in room and mosquito nets over the beds.  No wifi.  Very good food and wine selection.  A small communal swimming pool.  Large communal sitting area with a proper bar and a reading loft overlooking the Zambezi River.  Fishing, boat rides, canoe trips, walking and game drives included.

•  Old Mondoro, Lower Zambezi National Park:  Same owner as Chiwa and about an hour down the Zambezi River.  A small common area right on the river, in fact I saw three elephants swimming across the river when I arrived.   The four rooms were small, with an open wall during the day and screened flaps which are closed in the evening.  Each had electricity, a charging area, a mosquito net and indoor toilet.  Bathtub and shower are outside, but connected to the room.  No wifi.

• Chongwe River House, Lower Zambezi National Park: A part of Classic Safari Camps of Africa.   Narrow tents just a wooden step off the ground with great views of the Zambezi River.  The rooms are nicely furnished with electricity and fully enclosed, however there are not mosquito nets over the bed and the bathrooms are partially open.  The communal style supper table sits just near the fire pit over looking the river.  There is also a large bar and complimentary wifi in the main  area.  The pool has just been refinished.  Good food and wine selection. Fishing, boat rides, canoe trips (afternoon only), walking and game drives included.  There is an amazing home at the camp which sleeps eight people.  Rustic safari chic, with a private butler, guide and pool on the river.  Note that the rooms on the first and second floor are wide open, though there are mosquito nets over the beds.

BOTSWANA:

• Zerafa Camp and Selinda Camp, Selinda Reserve (a private concession of 230,000 acres) on the Selinda Spillway: 1.  Zarafa has four of the most luxurious tents I’ve ever set foot in.  The tents are all on raised platforms  with large decks, individual plunge pools and a brass outdoor shower overlooking the Selinda Spillway.  Inside these mammoth canvas havens is a large living room with private mini-bar and charging station.  The beds are covered with mosquito nets and a huge bathroom with a brass tub, a fireplace and indoor shower.  The tents also come equipped with Swaroski binoculars, Canon cameras and gym box for your use at camp.  Stand out activities include: photographic safaris with a guide who while help you get the perfect shot and a wine tasting safari. Curio shop with high end designers like Anna Trzbenski and African Princess.  There is even a small outdoor gym (punching bag, stationary bike and rowing machine).  Great food and wine selection.  2.  Selinda has nine raised tents.  Beds covered in mosquito nets.  Large slightly exposed bathrooms with tub and shower.  Selinda has a large communal sitting and dining area, a small shared plunge pool, an entertainment room for children with movies,  a curio shop and wine cellar.  Activities include: Mokoro rides (traditional dugout canoe which is poled through the channels of the Spillway), canoe, boat rides, sunset cruise, game drives, walks and photographic safaris.  No wifi.

• Stanley’s and Baines Camp, both part of Sanctuary, Moremi Reserve on the Okavango Delta:  Stanley’s has nine tents overlooking the delta, a large communal dining and sitting area and a communal pool (if I were to star rate a tent, I’d say around 3.5-4 star for the tent itself, the common area comes close to a 5).  Baines is a stitled camp right on the Delta.  The small common area (sitting and dining are separate) is linked by wooden walkways to the raised rooms.  The rooms themselves are cement with thatched ceilings, mosquito nets over the beds and a lovely deck off the front.  While Baines is more luxurious, I felt a bit claustrophobic on the walkways and preferred being able to walk between tents at Stanley’s.  Both camps have wifi in the main area and Africology products—which are fantastic.  Game drives are possible, though it was quite flooded when I was there, making our safari vehicle amphibious, a bit of off-roading if you will.  Boat cruises, fishing and Makuru (think of the African version of gondolas in Venice) are a available.  The most stand out activity is the elephant experience.—it’ a MUST.  An American man and his wife, took on three orphaned elephants who would have died on their own in the wild.  They live with the elephants full time and allow guests to spend a few hours up close with some of the first trained African elephants.  Afterwards you eat lunch with Sally and , and their three elephants just behind.  Truly a unique animal encounter, even in the bush in Africa.

• Xakanaxa Camp, Okavango Delta:  Xakanaka Camp, Chobe National Park:  A large lodge set in the middle of the park and right on the Delta.  The tents are a strong four star—raised platforms, fully enclosed, large deck, no mosquito net and partially open bathrooms.  Electricity goes out at 8pm, but paraffin lamps are lit all over.  A large communal area with serve yourself complimentary beverages, including liquor.  One of the most picturesque fire pits overlooking  the water.   Communal style table (unless specially requested) and buffet style service.  The food was pretty good, especially the gem squash with corn.  Because you are within a national park, walks are not offered, just drives and boat cruises.  Fastest laundry service to date.  Large curio shop and two common pools.  A family villa is in the midst of construction (bedrooms will be screened, but main areas are open).  No wifi.

• Linyati Ebony, Linyanti Bushcamp and Salie, African Bushcamps, Linyati Reserve: I was delighted to discover the private reserve borders the Chobe National Park.  The tents at Ebony and Bushcamp are large with a sitting area, double bed covered with mosquito nets and outdoor decks.  The bathrooms are in tent, with double sink basins and beautiful brass shower fixtures.  Both camps have intimate  communal sitting  and dining areas, inclusive of a fire pit where breakfast and sundowners are served.  The main difference between the two camps is that Ebony’s tents are on a raised platform and Bushcamp’s tents are on the ground.  The food and wine selection are fantastic.  There are four tents in each camp with electricity.  Saile is the slightly cheaper option, with smaller tents, no electricity, no mosquito nets around the beds, in-tent toilet and outdoor bucket shower.  The communal area is a larger tent with a dining table, small sitting area and  fire pit.  Activities like boat trips on the newly formed delta (the river hasn’t run through this area in over 30 years), fishing, walks and game drives are included.

MOZAMBIQUE:

• White Pearl, south east coast: A brand new, lively and large beach resort with 22 chalets.  Each unit had a large deck, individual plunge pool, living room, bedroom, bathroom (tub, no indoor shower) and outdoor shower.  The showers do feel a bit exposed, but management is working to add shrubbery to hide the view from the pathways.  The food and wine selection are delicious, but the service is slow.  Décor was very clean, beachy and modern—think Hamptons in the summertime.  Free wifi in the main area just across from the curio shop.  Two bars and a fun fire pit (live drums without the cheese).  Beautiful views of pristine beaches.  Snorkeling and kayaking are included.  Swimming with dolphins and diving can be arranged through the hotel but are extra.  Laundry is not included.  There are no mosquito nets over the bed and unfortunately there aren’t screens on the windows—so you have to chance bugs if you want to sleep with the windows open.  Several family units (or just think multi-room) are set to open before December.

• Marlin Lodge, Benguerra Island:  Authentic thatched huts on raised platforms overlooking a stunning blue sea.  Each hut has beach access.  Room is fully enclosed with screen doors to fall asleep to the  sounds of the ocean.  Mosquito nets over the beds.  Indoor and outdoor showers.  The food is delicious and fantastic wine selection.  You have the option for dinner or a wine tasting in the private cellar.  There is both a large bar in the main lodge and a thatched beach bar for sundowners.  Communal pool with views of the beach.  Free kayaking, Mokoro boat rides, a sunset sail, tubing, fishing, an island tour (with a local primary school visit,) snorkeling and scuba.  You can become certified for diving.  A small curio shop and spotty wifi in the common area.

• Azura, Benguerra Island:  Very spacious raised thatched huts.  The privacy of the rooms, makes it feel like you aren’t on a large resort.  There were screens to sleep with the doors open, but they had blinds on them, so you didn’t get the view.  Beds have mosquito nets.  In-suite tub and shower, as well as an outdoor shower with two heads.  Each room has it’s own plunge pool and deck, with private beach access.  I wasn’t a fan of the layout of the restaurant, but the service was excellent and food delicious.  There was a large main sitting area and bar, and a spa on property.  Wifi and curio shop are available near reception.  Free kayaking, Mokoro boat rides, a sunset sail, fishing, an island tour (with a local primary school visit,) snorkeling and scuba.  You can become certified for diving.  Presidential villa is also available.  $10 USD of each stay goes to the rainbow fund, helping the local primary children.

• Polana Serena Hotel, a part of Serena Hotels, Maputo:  A large colonial style hotel about 15 minutes from the airport.  The large picturesque pool overlooks the water.  A short walk down takes you along the water way.  Free wifi, breakfast and gym.  Rooms are simple, clean and spacious.  There is  a buzz about the lobby morning, noon and night.

TANZANIA:

• Rivertrees Country Inn, Arusha: pre and post climbing Kilimanjaro.

• Climbing Mount Kilimanjaro with Adventure International and their on the ground specialists: Summits Africa— I was in a proper a tent!

•   Matemwe Retreat, north east part of Zanzibar Island (Matemwe).

My tent on top of Kilimanjaro.