Male lion at the park in Masai Mara, Kenya with Bateluer Camp.

After spending 10 nights in the Mara, I have a better understanding of some of the subtle differences between say game drives in the national parks vs. a drive in a conservancy.  Personally, I experienced both and had fantastic experiences in each. Bateluer Camp for instance sits right on the border of the park, so I could view game from my tent.  Most of the game drives took place in the park. However, our walks were reserved for behind the camp outside the park itself.  The three major observations I made from visiting the game park a couple days in a row: 1) holy animals, they are everywhere,  2) there were more cars around the park and a bit of a safari vehicle traffic jam when a notable animal like a lion had been spotted, and 3) despite that we were staring at four lioness and nine cubs who were getting ready to hunt, we had to leave because the park was closing! WHAAAA! 

Lioness hunt in park, on drive with Batelur Camp expert guide Luke.

After four nights in the game park, it was a nice change of pace to spend four nights in the Mara North Conservancy (two nights each at Alex Walker’s Serian Bush Camp and at Saurni Lodge) and another two nights with Richard of Richard’s Camp in the Olchoro Conservancy.  Since I apparently do not possess “bush eyes”, named after the talent the locals have for being able to spot living creatures hidden in various bushes and tall grass, I was happy to observe that there were far fewer safari vehicles in the conservancies and abundant game.  Each conservancy, posses massive expanses of land that only lodges within that conservancy, can view the game within the boundaries.  In addition, at a conservancy, you can drive up, a reasonably close distance, to observe an animal (I was less than five feet from a lion and the baby elephant bloody brushed up against the Land Rover), and bush walks were allowed (though some times a tad scary from personal experience).

I have been in Kenya for the heavy rains, ie low season and it’s been awesome.  Other than one crazy rainy day, all the others have been sunny in the morning and a quick shower later afternoon.  I have still been on more game drives than you can possibly call sane.

The downfall to the rainy season, you may get stuck…but there is always wine & Tusker lager on hand.

Random side note, do not be fooled by “the African massage”– this phrase is used in reference to being jostled around in the safari vehicle on Kenyan’s less than desirable roads.  During the low season, the lodges are less full which has a direct correlation to the number of humans you will encounter on a drive.  High season starts: mid- June- September and December.  I highly suggest checking out low season if possible to avoid crowds, get better rates and even more personalized attention.

Pictures from the Masai Mara safaris (in park and out) are below. You cannot go wrong…

In the park with Bateluer Camp:

Elephants chasing lions.

Lionesses and their cubs safe from the charging elephants.

Lionesses begin to hunt as the sun falls.

Sunset & a rainbow over the Mara.

Lion cubs in the street, Masai Mara, Kenya.

Lion cubs.

Hippos in the river.

Hippo having some lunch, typically they graze after 8pm-7am.

Spotted Hyena.

Ground Hornbill.

Masai Giraffe, Masai Mara, Kenya.

Warthog.

Water buck.

This poor zebra recently escaped the crocs in the river.

When the topi’s stand attention, a predator has been spotted.

And the great lion chase begins…

Three male lions of the same pride.  Far right is the dominate male happily eating stolen hyena food.

Younger male from a different pride approaches three large males– clearly insane.

This male lion did not want the young male from another pride in his territory.

And the big guy just stares.

The show down begins…

Until the big lion gets annoyed and leaves! Well played lil guy.

 And the game in the conservancies, were just as impressive:

First wilderbeast spotted just in the North Mara Conservancy.

The resident hippos at Serian, literally outside my tent.

A very full male in Mara North Conservancy, Kenya.

His full belly doesn’t stop him from sniffing the lioness out.

Lady lions napping near Richard’s Camp.

The hippos watching our bush dinner at Richard’s Camp.

This was the one other car I saw during an afternoon game drive in the North Mara Conservancy.

Hippo pelvis found on a bush walk in North Mara Conservancy.

Post bush pee, the bumpy roads got to me!