The Duomo at Night.

Story & photos: Keren Eldad | Edited by: Michaela Guzy
Unlike many of my friends, travel for me has very little to do with exploration, and much to do with hedonistic pursuits. Basically, I travel for business and for pleasure. This makes my personal travel vastly different from business travel, and a far cry from the treks across the world as immortalized by my dad’s huge 80’s and 90’s camcorders.

In the past two years, I’ve been living in Switzerland, and taking full advantage of it’s proximity to any country around it. In particular, it’s proximity to Italy which has made a huge difference in my life.   As part of what I’ve come to refer to as my European Tour, an attempt to roam my new habitat in pursuit of my great passion for shopping, I have returned again and again to my number-one stomping ground: Milan.

Milan is not for the faint of wallet.  But I, who in typical fashionista form do not usually care to pay retail, have found a few ways to stretch a Euro here – and to have some seriously glamorous fun.

A couple of days in Milan are enough, and the weather doesn’t matter. For those who graze Via Montenapoleone (think Madison Avenue on steroids), sunshine here radiates from the shops. Milan has rocked the fashion world since the sixties, and today, it’s a clear leader in all things wearable. The city’s luxury shopping extends to Via Manzoni, Corso Venezia, and Via della Spiga. The biggest names in fashion are all represented—Versace, Fendi, Ralph Lauren, Missoni, Pucci…it’s enough to make you gasp.  And Miuccia Prada lives here. Enough said.

Your first stop must be The Galleria by the Duomo, a glass-domed structure with detailed mosaic floors. To make things even better, there’s a Prada within it. And not just any Prada. The FIRST Prada store ever, dating back to 1913. With its old-school feel and gorgeous bags, it’s the only history I ever need in this city. Also present in the Galleria are Gucci, Tod’s, and Louis Vuitton. Stop only to fuel up on espresso at Bar Zucca. You won’t find a more gorgeous setting for browsing or shopping anywhere in the world.

The Galleria: home of Prada’s first store.

Before leaving the area, carry on to the adjacent, charming, cobble-stone Via della Spiga—if only to buy a pair of Sermoneta’s exquisite, world-famous gloves. Any pair, in any length, color, leather, fabric, or lining can be found here. I just bought a decadent pair in Hermes-orange, lined with the softest cashmere. Don’t miss it. The streets are narrow, and offer a delightful setting for a walk back in time. It will at some point lead you onto Via Montenapoleone – mentioned above – where the world of fashion reaches a crescendo. Walk around, have fun, and if you get the chance – have lunch al fresco at Bacaro Del Sambuco.

An Italian enjoying her food at Bacaro del Sambuco.

Next stop is 10 Corso Como—which is, like Colette is in Paris, an institution meant for labelistas with a penchant for the avant-garde. To me, it’s a museum, with great photography and books on display plus fantastic people-watching– either way, it’s a must-see.

Now, let’s get serious. The next stops are all about outlet shopping. Much requires a day trip by car or train (especially to Florence), but there are great places in Milan, too. The Etro outlet on Via Spartaco always has the best selection of the label’s vivid paisley scarves, bags and shoes, fabulous men’s socks and jackets, and even pillows—all at least 50 percent off.  My personal favorite, the Marni outlet, is a bit less central and hard to recognize, since only a tiny plaque outside residential-looking gates indicates that these are the gates of heaven. It is worth the confusion. On my last visit, three hours flew by as I tried on every wooden platform and tent top, all of which are at least 60 percent off.  Marni for H&M is for amateurs – get the real thing here, and go home in style.

The Gates of Heaven.

Shoppers need downtime to reflect and celebrate their purchases as well, and for that, Milan has invented the magnificent tradition of Aperitivo. Milanese Aperitivo is basically the Italian version of after-work drinks. At almost any bar in the city, as of about 17:30 (or for you Americans, 5:30pm), you will be able to enjoy your drink with a terrific spread of snacks.  Bars will offer Foccacia, Chips, Almonds, and other nibbles – prolonging and enhancing your unwind time before dinner, or before going home. In the city, two locations offer possibly the most chic assortment and settings for a perfect Aperitivo experience – the Bulgari Hotel, and the Armani Hotel.

Entering the World of Bulgari. Outside the Bulgari Milano.

Bulgari Hotels&Resorts, Milan is a landmark, hidden gracefully behind the noise of Montenapoleone in the magical upscale Milanese neighborhood of Brera. Walk through the doors past the Ferraris into an oasis of muted tones and fur throws, and perch yourself elegantly to enjoy Aperitivo by the fire in the winter, by the chic lacquered bar in grey weather, or outside in the garden in the summer. Nowhere is more stunning to take in an Aperol Spritz – my Milanese cocktail of choice, and the snacks will dazzle your senses – from mini burgers, to crudités, to tiny balls of Mozarella that you wish you could take home in your purse.

The Bar at the Armani Hotel – finish your shopping trip right.

More recently, a new go-to Aperitivo destination has opened at the Armani Hotel Milano. At the hotel’s top floor sits the sexiest spa with a 360 degree view of Milan.  The main floor where guests check-in, boasts a bar decorated modernly and impeccably in the style of the illustrious designer. Situated on Via Manzoni in the heart of the designer district, the bar can prelude your visit to his shops downstairs – which include an Armani Casa and an Armani Florist.  Most don’t know that Mr. Armani also sponsors the local basketball team.  If you are feeling sporty, I suggest catching a game.  Rest assured that the Italians still dress the part for their court side seats.  And it isn’t the players they are going to have their photos with, it’s Mr. Armani.

Court side.

If you need a break from the Ialtian cuisine, you can always pop in Nobu for sushi, which is next door to the Armani Hotel Milano.  Here snacks look as modern as the decor and include mini quiches and a selection of cured meats, and the elegant surroundings seem to dictate champagne as the drink of choice. You’re guaranteed to feel as rich as you would like to be.

SHOP:

1. Prada, 63-65 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

2. Sermoneta Gloves, 46 Via della Spiga

3. 10 Corso Como, 10 Corso Como

4. 10 Corso Como outlet, in the courtyard behind 3 Via Tazzoli

5. Marni outlet, 1 Via Tajani

6. Etro outlet, 3 Via Spartaco

SLEEP:

1. Armani Hotel Milano, Via Manzoni 31

2. Bulgari Hotels & Resorts, Milan, Via Privata Fratelli Gabba, 7/b