Berlin Wall.

Berlin is a city full of history. For many of us, Berlin was in the headlines in our lifetime—whether it was World War II or the Berlin Wall coming down. But it’s also a European city that isn’t so European. This is not a city full of narrow, windy streets with multi-century old buildings. Instead, you find ultra modern office buildings and shopping malls, mixed with old stone buildings dating back to the pre Nazi era, and industrial spaces.

My first reaction is that Berlin is a city still finding it’s own identity. I was surprised by the amount modern architecture and newness in Berlin, as compared to other Euro cities. Yet the city reeks of history everywhere you go. My second reaction was, watch out NYC, this is a city that truly never sleeps. While Berlin may still be finding it’s way between new and old, I was thrilled to explore all of the diversity it offers around the clock. I have compiled a list of places of my favorite places to eat (EAT), drink (DRINK), things to do (SEE), and places to stay (SLEEP). 

EAT
Nope, I didn’t spend my days in Berlin washing down weisswurst, pickled cabbage and potatoes with steins of beer…well, maybe a couple of times. Most of the time, I found myself indulging in anything other than typical German food. Berlin is a very international city, and this is reflected in it’s restaurant scene.

Pauly Saal is what I would call modern German cuisine. Its hearty, delicious, and in a well-designed space. There is a great terrace, and a bar scene, with innovative cocktails at night (e.g. Gin, lemon, violet, and maraschino liqueur). The building itself is chocked full of history, as it once served as a Jewish girls school. The Nazi party turned it into a military hospital in 1942. Pauly Saal now resides in the former school gymnasium

Datscha, a Russian restaurant in Friedrichshain, is great for a lazy Sunday brunch. The menu is consists of real Russian food, such as blini, pelmeni and scharkoje, with many dishes accompanied by a vodka shot.

Katz Orange serves fresh, organic food, in a cozy setting…much needed on a rainy and cold Berlin day. The menu changes regularly and is locally sourced, when possible. Delicious, fresh, organic, sustainable, and cozy… what’s not to love? I should mention that their website is pretty fantastic too.

Edd’s is the place to go for Thai. Berlieners love their Thai food, and you can find it on every corner. Edd’s is a locals’ favorite. The thai cuisine is so authentic, that even the Royal Princess of Thailand has been known to dine here when she is in town. The chef learned to cook from his grandmother, who was a cook at the Royal Palace in Bangkok.

Bixels was a really fantastic potato restaurant. The owner, however, has closed up shop to travel (which we fully support at OTPYM!). Luckily, they had opened a pop-up shop of sorts, while I was there and I had a chance to try one of these delectable potatoes. According to their website, they will be opening a new restaurant at some point in the future.  This place comes highly recommended from potato lovers such as myself, and locals alike. Check out their facebook page for updates on the new restaurant.

Marina Bonita.

Maria Bonita serves up authentic tacos in Berlin. They are good. Really good. I say this as a taqueria snob who lived in California for a number of years. There is nothing fancy here. It’s small space with a few stools, and some outdoor picnic benches. Leave the burritos alone, and stick to the tacos.

Paris Bar is a cozy and quaint brasserie style bar. This place is more for atmosphere over food. The walls are covered in art by Martin Kippenberger. If you’re shopping in Charlottenburg, pop in for a glass of vino and the steak frites. I’m pretty sure I saw someone famous, although I couldn’t quite put my finger on I who it was. I’ll just say he was getting very VIP treatment and wore his sunglasses while inside.

Drink
Whether downing a few beers outside a bodega, and then on the train, or rolling up to a club at 4:30am to be greeted by a line down the street and around the corner, this is where the “city that doesn’t sleep” part comes in.

Neue Odessa is a classy little joint in Mitte/Prenzlaur Berg. But I don’t mean the sitting around sipping on cocktials kind of classy. This might be the intention upon arrival, but as the well heeled pours in, the DJ starts spinning and the strong drinks flowing, you might find yourself dancing in your seat wondering where the night went, and starting to get a little wild. I mean this in a positive way, of course.

Wohinzimmer means “living room”, and that is, in fact, what this bar replicates. There are tufted, oversized sofas and armchairs spattered about, chill music, and a good mix of people. This place is great for both day and night; offering German breakfast nibbles during the day, and drawing patrons to see DJs spin into the wee hours of the night.

What would a Berlin city guide be like without mention of the Berlin club scene. I headed to Berghain around 4am, right when things started to jump off. The line was long with no garuntees of entry upon making it to the front door. Apparently, there are no rules to their door policy and it is completely random. But, in we walked, and the techno was bumping, and the expensive drinks flowed. There are a number of techno clubs to check out in Berlin, and shamefully, some are putting pressure on these clubs to move or shut down. The Berlin club culture is a defining characteristic of this city, so no trip is complete without this experience.

See
This city is a combo of old and new with history around every corner. Not only did I get the history of just about everything from my Berliner friend who toured me around, I took a walking tour and got to see just about every attraction Berlin has to offer. I’ll leave the obvious off of this list (the Berlin Wall, Checkpoint Charlie, Brandenburg Gate), and stick to off the beaten path attractions.

Memorial to the Murdered Jews.

Memorial to the Murdered Jews is a memorial to the Jewish victims of the Holocaust. There are 2,711 concrete slabs of the same length and width, but different heights, arranged in a grid. There isn’t much rhyme or reason to the design, giving way to one’s own personal interpretation.

Street Art in Hackesche Höfe.

The street art at Hackesche Höfe is a great place to kill some time. Berlin is paradise when it comes to street art and graffiti, so I suggest checking out as much as you can (there are a number of tours for this). But if you want a small dose, the street art in Hackesche Höfe is a go to. Steer clear of the restos in Hackesche Markt just outside Hackesche Höfe. It’s a major tourist trap.

Potsdam is a town just outside Berlin. It was the residence of the Prussian kings and German Kaisers until 1918. Around the city, there are lakes, parks, beautiful gardens, palaces that mimic Versailles, and majestic buildings. For a dose of contemporary art, check out the Villa Schöningen near the Glienicke Bridge (this was the Bridge of Spies during the Cold War!). The bottom floor features a permanent multimedia exhibit that gives the history of the house throughout the years. The top floor features four rotating contemporary art exhibits, by four artists at a time, which has included early works by Andy Warhol. Sit down for a glass of wine and a nibble along side the works of contemporary artists in the sculpture garden.

There are a number of art galleries along Potsdamer Straße worth checking out. A couple of stands outs include; Freies Museum, an unassuming gallery that hosts exhibitions by local and international artists. And Helga Maria Klosterfelde Edition, just a few doors down from the Freies Museum. Not only are there many nooks and crannies to check out various mediums of contemporary art, but this building is fun to poke around in too.

The Berliner Festspiele arts center brings together a variety of arts and culture events under one roof, including music, theater, dance, and literature.  With a combonation of highly specialized festivals, exhibition projects, and individual events, there is something for everyone (in German and English) year around. I was there for the Foreign Affairs Festival and saw a modern rendition of the greek tragedy, Medea, called MedEia, that was fantastic and powerful. Berliner Festispeiele offers a jazz fest, and a number of other arts related festivals through the year that we well worth checking out.

Sleep
Berlin is packed with well-designed hotels at reasonable prices. Admittedly, I stayed in my friend’s extra bedroom in his stylish Prenzlaug Berg apartment (check out airbnb.com if staying in an apartment is more your style). But I couldn’t help but stop in and get the scoop on a few well-regarded (and a few lesser known) Berlin hotels.

Hotel Adlon.

Hotel Adlon,where Michael Jackson famously dangled his baby out of a window, is the cream of the crop in Berlin. It’s old school and expensive, but a historic hotel of Berlin. At the very least, I suggest stopping in for tea or a cocktail in the lobby bar before you check out the Brandenburg Gate just out the front door. The hotel is within walking distance to much of Berlin’s high-end shopping.

Hotel de Rome is located on Bebelplatz, where the famous Nazi book burnings took place. This hotel is old mixed with new; a classic and grand building, paired with sleek, well-designed décor. Museum Island is just around the corner.

Lux Eleven is located in the heart of Mitte. This hotel is extremely well designed and very boutique—with minimal service. The building was once used as a Communist spy station!! Choose from an open plan apartment with a kitchen, washer and dryer, or a classic hotel room.

nhow dubs itself Berlin’s “music and lifestyle” hotel. If there is one city that can get away with a hotel like this, it’s Berlin. nhow is a bit offbeat, from the building itself, to the décor inside. Need a Gibson guitar? No problem. Room service will bring it to you. If you’re not in the mood for a jam session, they offer a room service menu from the hotel’s restaurant as well.

Askanischer Hof, I’m told, is one of Berlin’s best-kept secrets. It is housed in an opulent, private mansion. The rooms are spacious and affordable and have attracted many famous guests over the years (not to name drop, but David Bowie is one of them).

Museum Island.

If you plan to visit Berlin, check out Stil in Belin, a local blog featuring all the latest in food, shopping, art, culture, coffee, etc.