Settled smack in the center of Europe, Switzerland is that tiny little country you can’t avoid. Many will pass through here on business, or just on their way to Paris, Milan, or Munich.  Geography aside, it doesn’t hurt that the country is home to some of the best watches and chocolate in the world, and that many international companies – and rich people –  settle here thanks to what might be called “relaxed” tax policies and the financial veins which run through the main cities (Geneva in the West, and Zurich in the East). It is for all these reasons that you may well find yourself here, perhaps even overnight.

Before we dive into what to do – and there is quite a bit – two words of caution:

1. It is VERY expensive: Having spent a very significant amount of time here, I’ve come to believe that in Zurich, the “Z” is for Zillion. To wit, a Starbucks latte here will set you back about six bucks. For those of us traveling outside the U.S., this is obscene. The duplication in fees also applies to retail and to hotel rooms.

2. The weather is London-esque. That isn’t a compliment. The city seems trapped under a big grey cloud most of the year.  Pack accordingly.

Starbucks: Your Latte Even More Expensive Here

If you are in Zurich for a day  – or a few (never stay longer. It’s like Vegas – after three days, you stop losing any sense of reality), there is plenty to do. You can combine seeing the city center with shopping – as they come hand in hand.  The city center surrounds a street called Bahnhofstrasse (translation: Train Station Street). It’s the Rodeo Drive of Zurich, paved with Prada, Dior, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Hermes, and all their friends. Jimmy Choo is conveniently across the road from Sprungli—purveyor of the world’s most decadent pastries, chocolates, and macaroons: meaning that derrieres AND wallets are at peril in this junction. It’s a gorgeous street, and fun to wander around.

Stop at Cafe Al Leone, next to Louis Vuitton, for the choicest coffee in town. Then head to the Grieder department store to lunch on their Terasse on a sunny day; a most civilized experience. Plus, I recently sat next to Roger Federer there.

Happy shoppers on Bahnhofstrasse

Leaping out of Bahnhofstrasse is the Limmat area – the city center’s Old City. Here are “narrow streets of cobblestone,” as Simon & Garfunkel once sang. Quaint, yes – but not high-heel friendly.

There is GREAT shopping along these streets. Don’t miss Le Boudoir – on a narrow side street above one of the most exquisite antique jewelry shops you’ve ever visited. I love consignment and vintage shops above all, for finding those rarest of treasures. Le Boudoir is such a place.  At last shop, I found the most perfect apple green Celine Boogie bag—now a prized possession—and a Marilyn Monroe-esque blue halter dress by D&G. The prices are not too bad, either.

Inside Le Boudoir

For pricier finds but a much broader selection, head to the hottest consignment in town – Zurich’s Luxury-Shops, on Ramistrasse.  The amount of mint condition Hermes alone will leave you at a loss for words – and money. In fact, they claim to be the number one reseller of Hermes worldwide. There are heaps of Chanel, I spotted THIS season’s Marni shearling coat, and 80’s Balmain gowns. In other words – this is consignment for the Rachel Zoe-esque power shopper. Most impressive? Shoes, which at other such boutiques are a no-fly zone, arrive here barely worn. Spotted – brand new Louboutins, Ferragamos, Gucci boots, and more. The store’s owner, a very handsome young man named Mario Margelist, tells me this is simply because his client is a woman for whom shopping is a way of life.  Well, just our luck then. You can also peruse and shop online. They will fed ex anything you select within a day. Brilliant.

Next up: Trois Pommes, the central boutique in a series of scattered designer shops. Owned by local socialite Trudy Goetz, this is a veritable Barney’s for the most discerning. Racks of Lanvin, Alaia, Balmain, and Balenciaga line these stores, ready to satisfy sophisticated fashion palates. I died for one of those thick Alaia butterfly belts. But then I remembered that I wasn’t Mariah Carey, and moved on. Look out also for Trois Pommes Men (Etro heaven) and Trois Pommes Vintage (best Jill Sanders spottings EVER – the Raf Simons years).

Trois Pommes: Where Jetsetters buy Jet Set Outfits

For a rest overnight, or longer, you will find some tremendous options in Zurich. The most famous among them is the grand Baur au Lac, situated perfectly in the very heart of the financial center.

Long considered one of the world’s finest hotels, the Baur au Lac is one of Europe’s few grand hotels that is still family-owned.  Founded in 1844 by Johannes Baur, it has hosted countless kings, queens, emperors, presidents, composers, authors, actors, and business moguls.  It is conveniently located adjacent to Lake Zurich, and within walking distance to all the shops and sites. Renovated entirely in 2009,  this is the hotel which houses princes and global leaders when they are in town, and the world’s glitteratti. The rooms are very pricey, yes – but a stay here actually offers Junior Suites with walk in closets (where else do you get that?) -and a Rolls Royce Phantom available for transportation. It certainly is very glamorous.

At the Baur au Lac: Head concierge Jérémie Varry is at your service. Photo Credit: Baur Au Lac

It is also a fantastic place to view art. At an exhibit they call Art in The Park, currently the hotel is showcasing local wunderkind Nikolai Winter  – in the 10th installment of a program they call Art in the Park. It’s a lovely setting for such immense pieces. Right now, you can see Winter’s innovative large scale sculptures – such as  his “doigt d’honneur”, and not have to schlepp to the city’s most well known art museum – the Kunsthaus. Not that that, too, would be a good place to check out.

Winter’s Doigt D’Honneur. Photo Credit: Baur Au Lac

For a drink, enjoy one of the best wine selections in the city – hand in hand with the most knowledgeable Sommeliers – at the hotel’s Rive Gauche Bar. On my last visit there, the Sommerlier suggested I try a regional wine – from the Swiss Canton of Wallis – made from Petit Arvine grapes. Apparently – these only grow in Wallis, and the resulting nectar is delightful and refreshing.

Entrance to the Rive Gauche Bar

More expensive hotels, but the very best include:

Widder  – a boutique hotel of the highest order, is nestled on a cobble stone street called Rennweg. The hotel has just 42 rooms and 7 suites, and is basically a refurbished townhouse that looks as though it was decorated by Tyler Brule himself *(if you do not know who Tyler Brule is, I recommend Googling him as he is a great genius). No two rooms are alike, and each time I have stayed in the hotel, my surroundings were earthy and exquisite, complete with Bang and Olufsen appliances and cookies from local legendary confisserie – Sprungli.

No list of Best Hotels is complete without the renowned Dolder  – sitting atop the hill of posh neighborhood – Zurichberg. While the basic rooms failed to impress me, they are nice enough, and the spa is world class among world class. A word of warning – Zurichberg is not a convenient nor central neighborhood, but the hotel does offer transportation of the most luxurious kind.

For a corporate stay – the Park Hyatt is a hub for both networking and conferences. It’s bar is quite lively as well, and it’s a nice place to kick start a Zurich evening – especially for gentlemen traveling alone.

A word to the wise. By “Expensive” I mean hotels that charge a starting price of CHF 450+ per night. For a somewhat more economical stay, there are a few great mid range options:

• Mariott
• Sheraton Four Points
• Storchen

Of all the above, the most “authentic” is Storchen – located in the Limmat region – the old city. It is lovely and the restaurant overlooks the lake and is a great lunch spot. Having said this, the Mariott is very conveniently situated, right by the main train station, and the Sheraton has a great spa. Your pick. Basic rooms will run about CHF 350 on average.

Here’s the great news: food is very good in Zurich, and while you will find mid range restaurants high priced, the most snazzy of establishments are here – compared with Paris, Milan, NYC, and other major cities – reasonable. Don’t forget – Switzerland is very close to Italy, and while local fare centers around cheese and, it appears, salad dressing – there’s much more than just fondue. Check out any of the below for a fantastic meal –

Bindella– right behind the main square, Paradeplatz- and best on Saturday afternoon.

Isebahnli– in the old city. Fantastic!

Casa Aurelio– located in the red light area, but heaps of fun and great food – and they offer valet parking.

Strozzi on the water– visit the fancier restaurant, as there are two of them – located in the pretty suburb of Herrliberg (where Roger Federer lives)

The Buzz at Bindella

Mid Range options include:

Cantineta Antinori – off of Banhofstrasse and offering simple yet delicious Italian food.

Terasse (at Bellevue) – is a local favorite, with great basic foods and a terrific white chocolate Tiramisu. It is best on a Sunday, at brunch time.

Latino on Seegartenstrasse – a nice basic for a low key dinner in a buzzing atmosphere.

Lumiere off of Rennweg – a lovely bistro that somehow reminds me of a tiny Pastis, and very well situated on Rennweg street, by the Widder hotel.

Lumiere – the Swiss answer to Pastis

Volkshaus – near the city center, this is a converted political center with tons of atmosphere and the “cooler” people of Zurich. Feels a bit like Berlin in there – and that is a good thing.

For Drinks:

There are many bars in Zurich, of course, to start off or end your evening. The Zurich Establishment would only name a few, but they are pretty good –

Widder Bar – hands down my favorite bar in Zurich, when you are here, you forget where you are. The plush red leather banquettes are not at all stuffy, and the interiors are as modern as the hotel in which the bar is situated – the Widder. On occasion, there is a piano player. On any night, there’s a terrific club sandwich to go with your Negroni.

Old Fashion – off of Banhofstrasse,  once you are inside, you are in London, and it is always raining outside. This bar has terrific clubhouse interiors and a pretty decent snacks menu, plus, you need to cross a gorgeous square to get there, which makes you think a bit of Milan. That’s a continental mix for you.

La Stanza – is a great after work drinks place for bankers and the girls who would like to date them. It is right in the city center, in front of a Credis Suisse building, and is a major pick up place. If you are reasonably attractive, you will make new friends.

Kaufleuten  -located in the city center, this may be one of the most happening bars in town. A word to the wise: do NOT eat there. YUCK. Just drink to your delight, and it helps to be a smoker as they allow it. There are also concerts next door to the bar at their concert hall, to which you can buy advance tickets.

If  you are here during the summer – grab drinks on the water – alongside Lake Zurich. It’s enchanting, and there are swans!

For Drinks on the Water:  

Fischerstube – located on the lakeside in the ritzy Seefeld neighborhood *(where all the well to do German expats live), this is a gorgeous place for a warm night and a large cocktail.

Strozzi – in Herrliberg, next to the restaurant described above. If the restaurant is the Swiss answer to the Eden Roc’s famed restaurant in France’s Cap d’Antibes, then this is where the golden people would come for a casual night. And they arrive, many with their own speedboat, parking it alongside this friendly barbecue venue. The food is great, and it’s a nice place to let down your hair and wear florals. As long as they’re Prada, of course.

– if you are into cocktails, sample an Aperol Spritz or a HUGO if you visit in summer. Delicious.

A word about Chocolate: here, it is considered a basic food group. Do not miss it for anything in the world, I don’t care if you are diabetic or suffering from seasonal chubbiness.

My suggestion is stop at any Sprungli for hot chocolate, chocolate in any form, and their signature macaroons. Pure Heaven. If for breakfast, get a Bircher Muesli. It’s pure love in the tummy.

Sprungli at Paradeplatz: don’t miss the macaroons *(“Luxemburgerli”)

As the Swiss-Germans say: “Auf Wiederluege“.

Address Book:

Le Boudoir

Schlüsselgasse 3

8001 Zürich

Trois Pommes

Men’s & Women’s

Storchengasse 6

8001 Zurich

Luxury-Shops 

Ramistrasse 25

8001 Zurich

Baur au Lac hôtel, Bar Rive Gauche

Talstrasse 1
8022 Zurich

Widder Hotel, Widder Bar

Rennweg 7

8001 Zurich

Bindella

In Gassen 6

8001 Zurich

Isebahnli

Froschaugasse 26

8001 Zurich

Casa Aurelio

Langstrasse 209

8005 Zurich

Strozzi’s Seehaus

Seestrasse 144

8704 Herrliberg

Cantineta Antinori

Augustinergasse 25

8001 Zurich

Terasse

Limmatquai 3

8001 Zurich

Latino

Seegartenstrasse 14

8008 Zurich

Lumiere

Widdergasse 5

8001 Zürich

Volkshaus

Stauffacherstr. 60

8004 Zurich

Grieder 

Bahnhofstrasse 30

8001 Zurich

Old Fashion Bar

Fraumünsterstrasse 15

8001 Zurich

La Stanza

Bleicherweg 10

8002 Zurich

Fischerstube 

Bellerivestrasse 160

8008 Zürich

Kaufleuten

Pelikanplatz

8001 Zurich