Off the Grid: 3-Day Grand Canyon Getaway

Posted on May 20, 2013 by Dan Smarg

Getting off the grind in the Grand Canyon

Getting off the grid in the Grand Canyon.

Los Angeles traffic is not nearly what everyone thinks – it’s ten times worse. Hence, you need an escape plan. Infamous for having one of the highest volume of vehicles in the world, the 405 Freeway – a.k.a. “The 4 or 5” as in your average speed – is a 24-7 parking lot with twelve lanes of endless grid-locked cars. That is, except when I drive. By the time my Jeep’s wheels leave Santa Monica behind and hit the east-bound pavement for the Grand Canyon on a Thursday night, I’ve got the run of the road. I’m joined by my buddies Josh and Zach. We’re just three adventurous dudes looking to get off the grid and out of the L.A. grind.

The trip starts with the requisite stop at Pasta Roma by University of Southern California. This tiny Italian eatery is the diligent student’s go-to solution for those late-night hunger pangs that would otherwise threaten to cut a critical mid-term study session short. But don’t think it’s just for the collegiate crowd.

Pasta Roma: 2827 S. Figueroa St., L.A., CA 90007

Pasta Roma: 2827 S. Figueroa St., L.A., CA 90007.

With a ton of appetizing, traditional options like Fettuccini Verde Di Pollo, Farfalle Con Pancetta and Cepellini Primivera, this hole in the wall sounds more like a Zagat-rated, reservation-only spot. Yet with entrées that never exceed $9 bucks, it’s a can’t-miss destination for a few hungry dudes looking to carb-up for the adventure ahead. The garlic knots are a must-order.

Satiated and back on the road, I watch the endless broken yellow lines on the 10 Freeway pass in solemn procession. I finally feel the distance growing between the City of Angels and me. With so much to do in such close proximity, everything except getting bored is an option.

"It's looking a bit cliffy!" The quick way down from the South Rim.

“It’s looking a bit cliffy!” The quick way down from the South Rim.

The Hermit Trail is one of the least traveled sections of the Grand Canyon. Cliffs and no safety railings, just how I like it!

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Colorado River from Hermit Trail.

Typically whenever you hear of people hiking “The Canyon,” they’re talking about the Bright Angel Trail which is a typical tourist trap. Sharing the trail with oversize coolers and wide-brimmed sunshades is not the kind of “immersion” we’re aiming for. In the spirit of OTPYM, the goal of “off the grid” is to get you plugged into places that are close to your big city, yet get you far away from all the crazy crowds. That doesn’t mean you won’t get a chance to meet cool folks; you just won’t be running into them unless you want to.

Insider tips: You need a backcountry permit for this trek that can be obtained at the Park Office at the end of the Hermit Road along the South Rim.

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The reason we leave the city so late is to arrive at our destination early because the National Park Service allocates Backcountry “Walk-On” permits for visitors on a first-come basis. Some people plan these kind of getaways a year in advance in order to access the most remote, underpopulated trails. But 9 times out of 10, we just visit Ranger Rick first thing in the morning, and we’re good to go!

The Hermit Trail starts at an elevation of 6,640 feet and descends 4,200 vertical feet to the Hermit Rapids section along the raging Colorado River. It’s a bit strange starting a trek going down, but fortunately we picked a perfect time of year because there is still some snow at the rim. Getting to the bottom can be tricky because the trail leads you through a section of tight slot canyons that remind me of The Narrows in Zion National Park. (That’s my next “Getaway L.A.” adventure so keep an eye out.) At the end of the slot canyon trail, you’ll find a great swimming hole with a small waterfall to cool off.

The lower slot canyon falls can be found off the east side of the trail about 1 mile from the Colorado River.

The lower slot canyon falls can be found off the east side of the trail about 1 mile from the Colorado River.

At the bottom, the gnarly thickets of sage brush open up and you’ve got the entire Colorado River to yourself. Making camp is easy. Just inspect the nearby beaches for high water lines and check the weather. If it looks like rain, it’s probably not a good idea to sleep in the middle of a dry-wash!

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If you can visualize your ideal travel photos before they occur, you put yourself in the perfect position to snap them. When and if they transpire, you’re virtually guaranteed to nab some indelible memories.

It's hard to believe that all these images are captured with my 16.1 Megapixel Canon Powershot Elph 110 HS. What can I say, I travel light.

It’s hard to believe that all these images are captured with my 16.1 Megapixel Canon Powershot Elph 110 HS. What can I say, I travel light.

Instead of being rewarded by a hike down, we have to grab our gear and head back up to Boucher Trail to The White Bluffs where we spend night number three. The day is full of incredible vistas without a single soul in sight. But by nightfall, we’re still four miles and about 2,000 vertical feet from the bluffs.

White Bluffs

White Bluffs.

By the time we reach the bluffs, it’s pitch black. We’re surrounded by empty darkness with nothing but faint celestial lights to orient earth from sky. The wind suddenly picks up dramatically as I clear the invisible ridgeline. Heavy waves of warmer, swiftly rising canyon air collide with the sinking onslaught of cooler drafts nose-diving over the South Rim 1,500 feet above me. I’m guided by my trusty  SureFire tactical L.E.D.  flashlight: “Found the edge! Might wanna keep right!” I yell back to my companions. It’s official: We are way off the grid!

Morning number 3: Zach joins me for sunrise and we see just how far down I almost fell. What a humbling way to start the day and the final push back to the South Rim! Puts things in perspective when the vast, black darkness from the night before reveals this natural wonder the next morning:

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A bit of football fun with no one else in sight.

Finally, after some serious sweating from our rapid ascent, we eeked out the last reserves of waning energy with a daring game of cliff-side football (awesome photo op!) before heading to grab a bit of grub at a local hangout called Cruisers Café 66 in Williams, Arizona.

Cruiser's Café 66: 233 West Route 66, Williams, AZ 86046

Josh and Zach checking out the BBQ. Cruiser’s Café 66: 233 West Route 66, Williams, AZ 86046.

The cafe is known for its micro-brewery, friendly service and legendary baby-back ribs. Nothing like a bit of BBQ to rally the troops for a 450 mile drive back to reality – or at least in our case, a really rough life by the beach!

Check out the full slideshow of this trip at MAVpics.com and look out for my next adventure in Zion National Park.