My Caribbean Retreat: Antigua

Posted on July 1, 2013 by Nikki Pepper

View of Carlisle Bay as the boat brings us in from snorkeling

View of Carlisle Bay, Antigua.

For a few June days, I escaped the city chaos and boarded a flight to a secluded Caribbean resort, with a small group of friends in tow. Upon arriving at Carlisle Bay in Antigua, we were each greeted by a fresh-squeezed glass of watermelon mint juice in the open-walled lobby, a much-appreciated refreshment from the humidity. I was then led to my suite (the all-inclusive, beachfront resort is suites-only) and was met with charming, simple details: fresh fruit delivered daily and an unconventional “do not disturb” sign: a conch shell.

I spent my days lounging on my private deck, enjoying room service, exploring the island, by boat and by foot and the evenings dining in the resort’s fine restaurants. Here’s my itinerary and don’t-miss suggestions for the land of sea and sun.

ANTIGUA ADVENTURES:

The dockyard

Nelson’s Dockyard.

Nelson’s Dockyard was built in 1782 and is the only surviving Georgian dockyard in the world. It served as a naval repair yard and safe haven from hurricanes. Through the late 18th century, dock workers were locked into the area and forced to work seven days per week– their compensation was 150-proof rum. Today you can even stay at Copper and Lumber, a hotel and restaurant that once stored the commodities of its namesake.

Cliff and Prince, our captains and snorkeling guides

Cliff and Prince, our captains and snorkeling guides.

Snorkeling is one of my favorite Caribbean activities so it was a must for my trip to Antigua. Cliff and Prince, two guides from the resort, took us out to a reef not far from the dockyard. They anchored the boat and transformed from captains to snorkeling guides, pointing out schools of Yellowtail Snapper and Black Striped Grunt.

Friends, rum punch and Caribbean music, what more do you need?!

Friends, rum punch and Caribbean music at Shirley’s Heights. What more do you need?!

Take a taxi to Shirley’s Heights, where you will find a lively party of Caribbean music, rum punch and delicious BBQ every Thursday and Sunday evenings (Sundays only in the off-season). The lookout has amazing views of Nelson’s Dockyard.

22-piece steel drum band playing during sunset

22-piece steel drum band playing during sunset at Shirley’s Heights.

On the Sunday we joined the festivities, a 22-piece steel drum band that draws tourists and locals alike with their Caribbean renditions. We arrived at 4pm when the party starts but I’d advise giving the sun some time to set if you want a bit less heat. Shirley’s doesn’t wind down until 10pm.

Overlooking the eastern side of Antigua

Exhausted but worth the view: overlooking the Eastern side of Antigua.

My last morning in Antigua took me out of the water and into the mountains. Not for the faint of heart, a four mile hike brought us through the rain forest and to a lookout overseeing the resort. Our resort guides, Junior and Ellison, lead the group through overgrown lemongrass and over slippery moss-covered rocks, all the while stopping to educate us on local vegetation (mangoes, papaya, pineapple and lemons are all abundantly harvested on the island). Our last stop before turning back for the sand was a clearing overlooking the flat Eastern side of the island, where VC Bird Airport is located. Several airlines – United, American, Virgin Atlantic – fly there. I took a direct flight from New York City, but be aware that there is only one direct on American and it does not operate every day.

RESORT DINING:

Coconut Grove, outdoor area in front of Indigo. Perfect for evening cocktails.

Coconut Grove, perfect for evening cocktails.

My first night at Carlisle Bay, dinner was at Indigo, a restaurant open to the beach. As a group of ten, we decided to let the house do the ordering and boy, we were not disappointed! Lobster ravioli, beets with goat cheese, and seared calamari were a few of my favorites.

For a more formal dining environment, make a reservation at East, the resort’s pan-Asian restaurant with fresh sushi and delicious Thai green chicken curry.

For day meals, order a bento box on the beach. It will be delivered lounge-side and has 4-5 samples depending on the cuisine theme you chose. I ordered the Caribbean, with seared shrimp cocktail, coconut rice and peas, and fried fish cakes with a mango salsa.

Do not miss the pizza at Ottimo! You can walk right up to the brick oven from the pool or beach. Who would think to come to a luxury resort and order pizza, right? But this is a must-have. I might have ordered two…

Every Sunday the resort hosts a beach BBQ, complete with live music. The appetizer table is enough to fill you up, but leave room for dessert. I sampled pineapple cake, kiwi tarts, and cinnamon donuts and each bite was worth it. Luckily for my waistline, the BBQ was my last night on the island so I justified the indulgence!

Beach view from my suite deck

Beach view from my suite deck.

My last morning at Carlisle Bay, I sipped a glass of watermelon juice and took in my surroundings: gentle turquoise waves lapping on the sand, Bananaquits churping in the palm trees and rainforest-covered mountains in the distance. One of those moments on the last day of vacation where you contemplate not moving, just tanning for the rest of the day and “accidentally” missing my flight…

ADDITIONAL RESORT OFFERINGS:

– Full spa menu, pilates and yoga classes, and tennis courts.

– Complimentary afternoon tea served daily.

– One side of the resort is dedicated to couples, the other to families.

– A library curated by Philip Blackwell.

– Screening room available for booking.

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Lounging in the Caribbean rays water-side.