Drink green wine. Eat grilled sardines. Sing. Dance. Soak in the ocean, and talk to strangers. My mantra for 36-hours in Lisbon as a solo-female traveler.

Lisbon at first glance is romantic. It’s full of what-ifs, surprises, and the chance to choose your own adventure. With a short window to explore a city that I’d spent the last two years virtually salivating over on social media, I set out to consume as much of Lisbon and its culture as I could. A non-stop flight to Lisbon from my homebase of New York City spits you out in just under 7 hours. Pro-tip: I popped a jetset natural pill thirty minutes before landing hearing that it would help stave off jet lag, and shockingly, I felt incredibly energized when I landed.

Portugal may no longer be Europe’s best kept secret, but the country is rich in culture, affordable, and safe—all key ingredients for when you’re a woman traveling alone.

Type Pour Over Coffee into Google Maps

In coffee, you find community. And in Lisbon, that community is vast. At the suggestion of my favorite travel Podcaster, Daniel Scheffler, the host of Everywhere (my current obsession), I immediately typed in ‘pour over coffee’ into google maps upon arrival and decided on Fabrica, a specialty coffee shop situated in the heart of the city in the barrio Alta district. Fabrica hit every mark— I loved that it was a bit off the beaten path, that the shop was buzzing with locals, and that they roast their own coffee (plus they had tons of non-dairy milk options which is a major plus for me). My order was an almond milk flat white and it was delicious.

Getting around

A Portugese man in his fifties with silver hair, tanned skin and a black tailored suit named Helder was holding a sign with my name on it. Not missing a beat, Helder, a driver for The Four Seasons, gave me some brief history of the region, and pitched his driving services during our 20 minute ride to the hotel before asking me if I was married, had children, and of course, why on earth a girl like me was traveling alone.

Naturally, this included tending to my own mental health and self-care. The hotel arranged for transportation, but otherwise, I took an Uber because, convenience.

Outside the Four Seasons Hotel

Why I love the Four Seasons

No surprise here. The moment I arrived at the Four Seasons Lisbon, it was full court press with spectacular service, and I was treated like royalty. My stunning room boasted a wrap around balcony looking out on the city of Lisbon. A bottle of red wine, a plate of fruit, and three small delicious pastries were laid out beautifully on the table. But all I saw were the Pasteis de belem! While typically gluten avoidant, when in Lisbon…. The buttery goodness melted in my mouth.

Besides the Michelin star restaurant, I loved the gym at the hotel as it’s important for me to get a sweat in before going about the day. To that end, I did a few sprints around the hotel’s rooftop track, which has panoramic views of the city and an in and outdoor gym with a pilates machine, trx and spin bikes. I was in heaven.

Four Seasons Gym

The Sites via Tuk Tuk

After my work-out, I went for some site-seeing via the tuk tuk tour (tuk tuk tejo) to get a sense of the charming city. My guide was hilarious and charming. He played a variety of Indiana Jones and Pink Panther theme music while we drove around windy cobblestone roads with hills—it sort of felt like we were in San Francisco. And we periodically stopped for site-seeing. Highlights included the oldest neighborhood in Lisbon, Al Fama, brilliantly colored street art, churches, and a charming flea market.

Smiling in a tuk-tuk car

Dinner at the Varanda, a Michelin star restaurant serving authentic Portugese food

I think the easiest way to meet people when you travel (if you’re single and solo) is through dating apps. And when you spell out exactly what it is you are looking for, in my case, a date to a beautiful dinner at the Varanda, things have a curious way of working out. By chance, I matched with someone who became my dining companion for the two nights I was in Lisbon.

The Michelin-starred Varanda (located on the first floor of the hotel) serves authentic Portugese food. All I can say is: GO. We ate like we were going to the electric chair, but here are the highlights: Octopus from Algarve, pan seared scallops, stone bass bathed in spicy ginger and mushrooms, all washed down with the region’s signature vino verde or green wine. We also shared the matured tenderloin Irish beef with black truffle sauce, which is sort of a fall dish, but delicious and hearty. And by all means, don’t skip dessert. We opted for a dark chocolate croustillant, cremeux of salted caramel and vanilla ice cream, a treat so delicious that I would honestly come back for this alone, regardless of my food sensitivities. The port wine sent me over the top, but I’m salivating just writing this up. Overall, the dishes were innovative and creative with extraordinary flavor. But the service and attention to detail was some of the best I’ve ever experienced in my life.

Activities – But First, Yoga?

My body craves activities and movement. I went to a heated vinyasa yoga class at hotpod yoga just 15 minutes from the hotel. Hotpod was a really cool visual experience. The class was within a domed tent inside the studio and it was packed with just about 15 people—all women. The teacher led a strong vinyasa flow and it felt great after a long flight to sweat it out.

Why I took surf lessons

I spent three hours learning how to turn left and right on an 8 foot foam board with Carlos from Lisbon Surf Tours in Carvelos on the coast. Carlos lives to surf and he usually spends his time coaching kids who want to turn pro. Carlos says surfing is really a mentality, mostly about spirit and getting comfortable in the water. Portugal is home to some of the biggest waves in the world. I’m not a very good surfer, but I find the act of surfing and just being in the water to be incredibly therapeutic and akin to a moving meditation. I love taking lessons because it makes you accountable and you inevitably meet incredible people.

Me with surf instructor, Carlos of Lisbon Surf Tours in Carvelos.

Lunch in Cascais

Cascais is an affluent coastal region with some of the most expensive property in Portugal. Madonna, Johnny Depp and Bruce Willis all have had homes in the area, which used to be the place where kings and aristocrats spent their holidays. Suffice to say, I knew lunch in the Portugese Riviera wouldn’t be cheap. I wound up at Furnas Do Guincho, a beautiful seafood restaurant overlooking the water. I opted for a seafood feast including grilled fish and octopus paired with vino verde. The octopus was a bit fatty for my liking, but it was exactly what my body needed after a rigorous surf session in neighboring Carvelos. I love dining alone, but don’t do it often. I came to find out that the man seated at the table next to me ran a lifestyle magazine in Europe. When in Europe, talk to strangers and network! We naturally bonded over the relaxed lifestyle by the coast. “One day,” I thought to myself…

Lunch ended and I left the seasides of Cascais to take on a solo-adventure to Sintra. At the suggestion of a trusted local, I took an Uber to Mar do Guincho, and walked along the beach to Bar do guincho (stunning views) before my final destination of Palacio Nacional da Pena. It was quite busy and touristy, but the trails are quite beautiful, some might even say magical. If only I’d given myself more than just an hour to make the trek. I could have spent a full day on that beach.

Octopus lunch in Cascais

RIB Beef & Wine Lisboa – another day another gastronomic adventure

My date and I were hosted by RIB Beef & Wine at Pestana Pousada de Lisboa. Feeling experimental, we allowed the waiter to make the tough decisions for us. The result? Dried beef that melts in your mouth called Cacina; ceviche, a “gentleman’s steak” with three kinds of salt and sweet peppers, and a side of squash. The Portuguese cows, I was assured, were all grass fed and very wild. “The farm to table is about four hours from the cows being transported from Northern Portugal to Lisbon” the waiter explained. We shared a bottle of Quinta Dos Thermos, a medium body medium light wine with good tenets and some astringents! I’m not much of a wino, but it was incredible and so was the Porto. The restaurant is smack in the middle of a touristy square, but everything about it from the service to the food was excellent.

Steak and entree at RIB Beef & Wine Lisboa

36 Hours is not nearly enough time..but the flavors and culture of Lisbon have won me over. It is all but guaranteed that I return to this beautiful city, if not for the sites and the sounds, but also for the people.. oh, and one more glass of vino verde.