ALL SAINTS IN THE SUN!

The Village of Todos Santos (all saints), has long-been special.  This wild sense of possibility has drawn a small stream of travelers to Todos Santos for decades. Some come to surf the nearby breaks, widely regarded as among the country’s best. Others, to wander the cobblestone streets lined with tiny artisan shops and refurbished haciendas in the old part of town. Still others come to while away the hours at the iconic Hotel California’s long wooden bar, which, contrary to local lore, is not the same place named in the Eagles song. The area is so enchanting that in 2006, the Mexican government designated Todos Santos a Pueblo Mágico—one of just 100 or so small towns honored for its natural beauty, cultural riches, or historical relevance.

Vibrant and active, Todos Santos was initially founded as a Mission in 1723 by Padre Jaime Bravo. The town church located on the plaza púplica was constructed in 1724. Following the secularization of the missions, Todos Santos underwent a major transformation and agricultural boom when its vast aquifer was discovered. Farming thrived in the 1800’s and later, it became a major sugar-cane producer. Sugar barons built many of the historic brick buildings in town. There were 5 active sugar processing mills, known as molinos. One of these now houses the La Posada del Molino boutique hotel. Visitors can view the original mill machinery, stack and portions of the mill itself!

Evidence of life in Baja California Sur by nomadic tribes dates as far back as 11,000 B.C. By the time the Spanish first arrived in the 1500’s, they found the Pericú, Guaycura and Cochimí people living simply as hunter-gatherers with no agriculture and no metallurgy. These native tribes successfully resisted colonization for almost 200 years. The mission in Todos Santos was quickly named Nuestra Señora del Pilar de la Paz for the town’s patron saint, the Virgin of Pilar, whose feast day is still celebrated annually on October 12.

In addition to the bountiful fishing that has been the mainstay of modern life here, the area around Todos Santos is a rich farmland that evolved from the sugarcane crops in the 19th century to a diverse source of avocados, chilis, papayas and much more.

Surfing has a long history in Baja culture, and Playa Cerritos, located about 20 minutes south of town, is no doubt the most popular beach for newbies and experts alike; it’s relatively easy to get to (down a dirt road!) and offers both a gentle beach break and a more adventurous rocky point break. Boards, wetsuits, and lessons are available from Mario Surf School, which is located in a tent on the north end of the beach near the Hacienda. For those who prefer to dry land adventures, the surrounding Sierra de la Laguna mountain range is ideal for hiking and mountain biking. One popular hike is to the top of Punta Lobos, which affords breathtaking views of an abandoned fishing port where its namesake, a sea lion (lobo marino or “sea wolf”) colony has made its home.

But perhaps the most romantic place to stay in town is Todos Santos Inn, set in a former hacienda that was built by a sugar baron in the 1800s. With its faded murals, arched walkways, and antique furniture, it looks straight out of another era. It has an amazing cocktail bar, Chachita, where black and white throw-back flicks featuring Eva María “Chachita” Muñoz Ruiz
play silently amid solid jazz and vintage dressed bar keeps.

Many galleries line the streets, along with hip street wear and jewelry boutiques. Last but not least, is the many taco stands that dot the town. Tacos Pescados (fish tacos) are a simple, but delicious treat here – for a couple of bucks each, you can have quite the feast fresh from the sea. This is all within a 1-hour drive from Cabo, so make it a day trip or a week-long stay!

Siobhan’s Instagram + Twitter: @siptips