A Different Kind of Safari: Masai Mara, Kenya

Posted on May 7, 2012 by MichaelaSGuzy

A view from the ground.

My guide, Lemeria Nchoe, a Masai working for Saruni Lodge in Masai Mara, deemed me totally insane.  After 10 days in the Mara, I was ready to get out and explore something other than the over abundant animal population.  In retrospect, I was suffering from the delusion that wild creatures would take note of my new bush mantra and blend seamlessly with them on the North Mara Conservancy open plains. Lemeria begrudgingly agreed and somehow managed to make my ideal day happen…a long walk through the Mara (despite the massive mud puddles from the heavy rains the day prior), show me a few species I haven’t yet seen, visit a local Masai church (mom, don’t die of shock, I voluntarily attended a portion of mass) and a close up of a Masai’s missing bottom teeth (it’s is en vogue for the Masai to remove two of their bottom teeth). 

We started with the hike across the open Mara. Lemeria just smiled his partly toothy smile down at me, as I crawled around the ground taking photos “from a different angle”. Under his breath I heard him mention something about being the craziest American he’d met yet.

Lemeria just smiled his partly toothy smile at me (it's is en vogue for the Masai to remove two of their bottom teeth), as I crawled around taking photos "from a different angle".

Lemeria Nchoe, guide at Saruni Mara.

Cape Buffalo.

Giraffes.

Grass.

Termite mound.

A bird on the safari.

Lemeria sees something moving in the bush.

My guide.

Demonstrating how I would need to climb the tree if something if something approached us on our walk.  He was less worried about cats and more so about elephants.

Lemeria looking perplexed when I explained I hadn’t run up a tree in at least two decades.

Topis fighting to be on top of the mound.

Zebras.

His sarcasm became clear as I was mid army crawl…when I came across this ginormous (on the spider scale) furry monster and lept to my feet. Lemeria holding back laughter, informed me in fact that this is in fact a highly poisonous Baboon Spider.

Baboon spiders live in holes and are a tasty treat for Mongoose.  I haven’t yet met a Mongoose, but I would like to personally thank them for their dedication to eating furry creepers.

Let’s just say after my encounter with this guy, I was reminded that I am not quite the adventurous bush woman I thought I’d become. Happily, I jumped into the Rover just in time to come across these two which further reinforced why I should do safari from the comfort of the Land Rover. We ran into a few others that I was happy not encounter on foot too.

Two male lions.

Lone Cape Buffalo.Baby hyenas still aren’t cute.

Wilderbeast.

Selfishly, he wouldn’t let us have lunch on the bank of his water hole.

Animals grazing.

Jackel.

After all the animals, I was ready to attend my first Masai mass. And it was indeed, a once in a lifetime experience. A small, dark, cement building– packed with people singing and dancing in the local Ma language.  There were microphones and an electronic keyboard jamming out church tunes I didn’t quite recognize. In fact, other than the seats facing an alter like platform and a big red cross, I felt more like I was at play– except everyone was really enthusiastic to be a part of the celebration.

Lemeria blessing the church goers.

Standing, watching and listening.

A close up of children in church.

A young boy in his suit for church.

The church’s women.

Peeking over the pew.

Outside of church, some hard working ladies collect the fire wood. The local store.

The local matatu used for long-haul commuting (ie to Nairobi). A Matatu can legally hold up to 14 passengers, but to date I’ve seen up to 19 people in one.

A local Masai gate to protect the livestock from lions and other predators. The husband, his wives and children will also live inside.

Local Masai children.

Sadly leaving the Mara and on to city life in Nairobi. I did my best to wash the bush dirt off.

Thanks to Saruni Mara and Lemeria for taking me off the beaten track.  It made for a very unique and memorable last day in the Mara.