Visit Paris, France: Lively and Local
Babydoll meets bad boy at Claudie Pierlot.
Paris, France is home to the Eiffel Tower, warm baguettes and Coco Chanel. But aside from the well-known sites and history of the city, Paris also offers vibrant, lesser-explored neighborhoods where you can find hip Parisians bustling through the likes of trendy new neighborhood Canal St. Martin and the maze-like streets of Le Marais. Next time you visit Paris, take advantage of these lively areas that will surely keep you up ’til the wee hours.
CANAL ST. MARTIN
Located in 10th Arrondissement, this picturesque neighborhood has managed to keep under the tour bus radar. The canal itself is lined by trees and beautiful arching bridges that illuminate at night. The center of activity is around the Quai De Valmy where you will find cafés and bistros filled with young local hipsters.
Dining
Chez Maurice, 26 Rue Des Vinaigriers
Chez Maurice is a tiny little restaurant right off the canal that serves some of the best home-cooked French comfort food. The duck and the escargots are the house favorites. The prices for main courses run under 20 Euros each and the robust yet affordable wine selection offers bottles under 12 Euros each.
The house special at Chez Maurice.
Drinks
Le Comptoir Général, 80 Quai de Jemmapes
Otherwise known as the “Ghetto Museum”. This multi-room bar is actually situated in an old barn. Decorated with colonial African and Caribbean art and curiosities, the place really lives up to its “museum” moniker. The bar is crowded all week long; you’ll need to get there before 10pm on the weekends if you want to avoid lines at the door. The bar also serves a French-African brunch on weekends. Reserve in advance as its a local hot-spot.
Follow the arrow…Photo Credit: Pork & Chocolate.
LE MARAIS
The secret has long been out, but this maze of a neighborhood filled with cafes and boutiques still continues to impress. Although Colette still holds the fashion court (we saw Karl Lagerfeld leaving the store with three assistants and shopping bags in tow), there are plenty of other French fashion boutiques worth a visit.
A curiosities area at Le Comptoir Général with plenty of conversation pieces.
Shopping
Claudie Pierlot, 1 Rue du 29 Juillet
The clothes here are all made in France. In the words of my girlfriend, Claudie Pierlot is babydoll meets feminine tomboy. It’s a destination for details, sheer chiffons, silks and leather button ups. The same brands can be found at Barney’s but at a 40% markup. Read: Stock up here!
Repetto, 51 Rue des Francs-Bourgeois
Although not as big as some of the dance brand’s other stores in Paris, this boutique carries all of Repetto’s signature ballet flats. And for the ballerinas in waiting, they also sell tutus for girls 6 and older.
You’re never too old to want to dance. Photo credit: Design Inspiration.
Drinks
Jackets, 20 rue Picardie 75003
A hot new trend in Paris is to play rock music. Metal seems to be even hotter, if we can judge by the night we stopped by Jackets for drinks. This new hot spot comes with a pedigree. Its owners, John Whelan and Charaf Tajer, were the team that gave Paris the popular but now closed Le Pompon. It’s best you leave your fancy shopping bags at home, and rip up a bit of your shirt before you go. Think Dark Room in the early naughts. Expect to hear Black Sabbath, 80’s hair bands, and lots of Stones.
Rock and Roll never dies!
LEFT BANK
A don’t-forget on your list of places to explore. Perhaps more refined and stuffier than its Right Bank sister, the Left Bank still holds plenty of charm for travelers looking for fun. Here are a few recommendations to start your adventures.
Dining
Le Comptoir, 9 Carrefour de l’Odéon
Once the secret darling of the foodie world, this restaurant now boasts two hour waits after Anthony Bourdain called it the “perfect Parisian bistro”. Though don’t be mistaken– the menu is always filled with little neo-classical masterpieces. Order a few bottles of Morgon from Domaine Marcel Lapierre to wash down your three hour meal.
A rare line-free moment. Photo Credit: Food Snob.
The requisite meat plate at Le Comptoir.
Pierre Hermé, 72 Rue Bonaparte
Everyone raves about Ladurée’s macaroons, but now that you can grab a fresh box on New York City‘s Madison Avenue, why not one-up Ladurées with a box of macaroons from Pierre Hermé? Walking into this dessert shop feels more like walking into a bespoke jewelry store. The flavors here will delight and surprise you. If you still hanker for some Ladurée, there’s a line free shop at Charles De Gaulle duty free.
The dessert version of a Cartier display case.
Sights
The Garden of Luxembourg
Not on the Holy Grail tourist trail and so much more quite and serene. A walk through this oasis is just what is needed after all the worth-every-bite gluttony and dozens of macaroons!
Drinks
Le Montana, 28 rue Saint-Benoît, St-Germain-des-Pres
If NYC’s Studio 54 was resurrected in Paris, it would be Le Montana. This lavish club is popular with the fashion set, French actresses, pop stars and famous footballers. If you get past the doorman, the rest of the club is resplendent in crimson, velvet and gold.
If you can’t get in to Le Montana, try these perennial favorites as Paris doesn’t believe a good club should ever go to seed!
Silencio, 142 Rue Montmartre
Designed by David Lynch, this gold-flaked club continues to impress. While its still a members-only club, the door opens to the public after midnight and is packed with beautiful young Parisians and international cool hunters. Go on a week night as the door will be easier.
Le Baron’s DJ Peter Pan working the decks.
Le Baron, 6 Avenue Marceau
While Le Baron’s Miami pop-up parties and its New York outpost are beginning to lose their luster, the Paris flagship continues to thrive. It’s hard not to love this place. The decor is a throw back to the night clubs of the 60’s and the house DJ, Peter Pan, spins vintage 70’s soul and disco with some Serge and Brigitte Bardot thrown in just to remind you that you’re still in Paris. Expect “C’est tous les deux?” at the door.
And a few even lesser known spots to dine and drink:
Racines, 8 passage des Panoramas
A tiny little wine bar and restaurant in a picturesque little passage filled with cafés and shops, this restaurant serves amazing Italian-inspired plates with daily specials. The wine selection is excellent and the staff colorful and friendly. My strongest Racine recommendation: don’t skip the desserts!
“My Friend John’s”– The welcoming and friendly staff live up to this restaurant’s name.
Chez L’Ami Jean, 27 Rue Malar
A cozy, eclectic Spanish spot adorned with posters of Matadors and Lucha Libre masks. Chez L’Ami Jean is located by the Eiffel Tower, but despite the iconic Paris location, the food is the best Spanish food outside of Spain. The menu changes often and the portion sizes are huge, yet somehow you’ll be wishing the meal didn’t end.
La Tour Paris 13- an entire building of art.
HAPPENINGS
La Tour Paris 13
In a building scheduled for demolition later this year, all nine floors and every surface area has been turned into an urban art gallery. The space was curated by Mehdi Cheikh, the founder of Galerie Itinerrance, with 105 street artists from 18 countries. The show ends November 1 and will never be seen again so make a point to visit if you’re in Paris. If you won’t be in town, learn how the art will live on. After all, the Louvre will always be there. Expect a six-hour long wait in line, so get there early before the 10am opening if you want to get in.
A geometric wall at La Tour Paris 13. Photo Credit: Annalisa K. Varesi.
Every room is designed by a different street artist. Photo Credit: Annalisa K. Varesi.
Alaïa at the Musée Galliera, 10 Avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie
If you liked the Alexander McQueen exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City, then you will enjoy the retrospective of Azzedine Alaïa’s work at the Paris Museum of Fashion. Famous for dressing the likes of Grace Jones and Naomi Campbell, Alaïa is a designer who’s importance has been missed by the public at large.
Alaïa. Photo Credit: Pilar Rossi.
Alaïa. Photo Credit: Pilar Rossi.
STAY LIKE A PARISIAN
We went with Airbnb and found an amazing apartment. The site has a variety of apartments and quality options that offer the singular experience of staying in Paris like a local as opposed to a hotel guest. Choose a place that is central and close to the metro as the metro is convenient and efficient in the city. We were caught between a sunny apartment in the heart of Paris or a flat with a lush outdoor terrace. Decisions decisions!
A rare terrace at this Paris flat. Photo credit: Airbnb.
Check out more of OTPYM’s Paris recommendations on where to sip, stay and shop and exploring France’s champagne region.