Jordan: A Journey Back in Time

Posted on November 6, 2013 by Amanda Dempsey

Al Dier Monastery Petra Historic Jordan

Al Dier Monastery, a famous ruin in Petra. Photo Credit: Amanda Dempsey.

Petra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, has been on my bucket list for years now, and I was lucky enough to cross it off recently. What I didn’t realize but quickly discovered was that historic sites of Jordan extend well beyond Petra.

Hiking through Petra, Jordan, you can overlook the border of Jordan and Israel. Photo Credit: Jad Asfour.

Hiking through Petra, you can overlook the border of Jordan and Israel. Photo Credit: Jad Asfour.

I spent my first two days in Jordan’s capital, Amman, a sprawling city where old meets new. I had no idea how large it was and with all the construction, it seems to only be getting bigger. All the new hotels and boutiques offer an interesting contrast to the ancient Citadel which sits on the highest in hill overlooking the city.

Citadel Amman Historic Jordan

The Temple of Hercules and the breathtaking views of Amman from the Citadel. Photo Credit: Amanda Dempsey.

The Citadel turned out to be just a teaser as the next stop on my journey was Jerash, a city about an hour outside of Amman. Jerash – which reminds me of Pompeii in Italy – dates back to 333 BC and is recognized as one of the best preserved towns in the world. In 749 AD, a major earthquake destroyed much of the city; the ruins remained buried until they were discovered in 1806. Excavations still continue to this day. I couldn’t help but be taken that an entire city with paved streets, hilltop temples and theaters were built no modern machinery. I wish I could have been there for the Jerash Festival of Culture and Arts to catch a show in one of the Roman amphitheatres- I was told the event is a must!

Jerash Historic Jordan

The city of Jerash, destroyed in 749 AD, is still being excavated today. Photo Credit: Amanda Dempsey.

Leaving Amman, I headed down the King’s Highway which was once part of the ancient silk road. I highly recommend hiring a driver and/or a guide, like Detours, as road conditions seem a bit haphazard and road rules seem to be optional. Some of the major stops along the way included Madaba, famous for its mosaics, especially a sixth century mosaic map of the Holy Land, Mount Nebo where Moses viewed the Holy Land and Wadi Mujib, know as the Grand Canyon of Jordan.

Walking through the Siq. Historic Jordan

Walking through the Siq. Photo Credit: Amanda Dempsey.

Treasury Historic Jordan

Viewing the rock-colored Treasury. Photo Credit: Amanda Dempsey.

And at long last, it was time for Petra. Would it live up to all its hype? I’ve wanted to visit this place for years– were my expectations too high? Would I be disappointed? I soon answered all my questions with resounding ‘NO’! Petra is awe-inspiring. I felt dwarfed by the magnitude and history of what stood before me. I couldn’t help but channel the Indiana Jones movies of my childhood as we turned the corner to see all of the historic structures carved into the rock face.  The weather was perfect and the crowds few. (Sadly, tourism has been affected by the conflicts in the Middle East, but as a female traveler I found Jordan very safe and the people extremely friendly.)

As you walk through the Siq, a long narrow passage between two overhanging cliffs, it opens up to Petra’s most famous ruin, Al Khazneh – popularly known as the “Treasury” – carved out the dusty pink rock. However, this was just the beginning, as there was so much more to see from the hundreds of elaborate rock-cut tombs with intricate carving to the impressive Ad Deir Monastery, well worth the flight of 800 rock-cut steps it takes to get there. And once you get to the top, you are rewarded with not only wonderful views, but a small, unexpected, outdoor café.

Monastery Historic Jordan

Climbing the 800 rocky stairs to the Monastery. Photo Credit: Amanda Dempsey.

After Petra, it was time to visit the desert, Wadi Rum, a valley that is cut into the sandstone and granite rock in southern Jordan. I arrived there late afternoon, just in time to take a private 4×4 tour around the desert which was so peaceful with lots of natural light and scenery. That night, I stayed in a traditional desert camp and as we were just about to be served a traditional Bedouin meal – chicken or goat cooked under the desert sand generically know as ‘zarb’ – the heavens opened up to a wild wind, sand and rain storm. Everyone ran for cover during very rare desert rain.  After about an hour of trying to stay dry under tarps, the rain stopped and we were able to step back under the stars and enjoy our dinner.

The rippled sand and mountains of Wadi Rum. Photo Credit: Jad As four.

Endless sand and rocks of Wadi Rum. Photo Credit: Jad Asfour.

What a better way to recover from a sand storm than a trip to the Dead Sea? I stayed two nights in this part of Jordan but could have easily spent a week. What a unique sensation to literally float on top of the warm, salty water. The Dead Sea is at 400m below sea level, marking the lowest point on Earth and its water is ten times saltier than sea water: a relaxing way to end my visit to Jordan!

Wadi Rum Historic Jordan

Exploring Wadi Rum by 4×4. Photo Credit: Amanda Dempsey.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Petra Panorama Hotel: Embrace the beauty of Petra from this mountain site hotel. You have unobstructed views of the rocky historic city and a turquoise pool to enjoy the warm weather.

Amman has a large selection of accommodations. If you are a loyal guest, you can find your international brand of choice here, like Four Seasons and Le Meridien.

Desert camping is an adventurous and unique way to stay in Jordan. A night sleeping in a tent was part of my desert safari itinerary. Although accommodations sound simple, the experience is enriching and the Bedouin meal delicious!

I planned my trip with Jordan Select Tours who can arrange hotels, transportation and itineraries. For adventure travelers, check out Detours for even more hair-raising options.

dead Sea view of Israel from Historic Jordan

Sunset overlooking the Dead Sea into Israel. Photo Credit: Amanda Dempsey.

Enhanced by Zemanta